Getaway - Açores

I've been eagerly anticipating this trip since 2017, and it was postponed due to my busy schedule and the Covid-19 pandemic. Finally, the time has come for me to embark on this long-awaited journey.

As of 2022, there is much more information available for tourists compared to some 5 years ago. However, for anyone planning the trip to Açores for the first time, the abundant amount of information on the internet can be quite overwhelming. So this log is a quick summary of the things you can do if you're intending to go on a quick getaway.

Açores is in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean and comprises of 9 islands. Normally, for first-time visitors, you're likely to visit the main island São Miguel. There are direct flights from Lisbon and the flight time is about 2h30m.

My trip was a rather short one (4 days & 3 days) so I wanted to make sure I see as much as I can. 

Ponta Delgada is the center of commerce on the island of São Miguel. It's where all the hotels and shops are. A taxi ride from the airport to Ponta Delgada is about 10 minutes and costs €10. Please note that there is no Uber on the island. Getting around on a bus is easier than you think. Google Map provides accurate information. Most of the bus stops are located in the main square just right outside of the Tourist Office.

Day 1
08h30 - Took off from Lisbon
10h00 (Local Time) - Arrived in Ponta Delgada, São Miguel
10h45 - Checked in at hotel (I stayed at Casa Hintz Ribeiro)
11h30 - Met my friend at the main square and took a taxi to Caloura for lunch
12h00 - Bar Caloura for lunch. Highly recommend the Grilled Peixe do Porco. We also ordered a dose of Lapas grilled with butter and served with lemon juice.


15h30 - Took a taxi to the ceramic factory: Cerâmica Vieira



17h00 - We got adventurous and took a bus (C315) back to Ponta Delgada
17h30 - We wanted to eat at a very local place and took a bus to Capelas
18h00 - Had a walk around the neighbourhood and we entered Café Canto do Cais. They didn't have the famous bone soup so we ordered the fish Caldeirada.


23h00 - Just in time to catch the last bus right outside of the restaurant and returned to Ponta Delgada.

Day 2
09h00 - The driver picked me up at the hotel
09h30 - Visited the Pineapple Plantation; Açorean pineapples are the only greenhouse pineapples in the world. They are very small, much juicier, and take 2 years to grow.


10h00 - Spent the rest of the morning driving around the northwestern part of São Miguel and finally arrived at Sete Cidades.
12h24 - So thrilled I made it to the Blue & Green Lagoon in Sete Cidades! The tragic tale behind these Lagoons was even more intriguing. The sun came out; the fog is gone so I was very lucky.


13h50 - Lunch at Restaurante Alcides. Classy place and highly recommend their beef steaks!


16h00 - My friend and I got addicted to the bus rides. Every corner of the island is scenic so whichever bus you hopped on, the ride is going to be very enjoyable. It was steak day. And as there are more cows than humans on Açores,  we decided to check out the best steakhouse!
18h00 - Dinner at Associação Agrícola de São Miguel, Ribeira Grande. Excellent meal. Huge portions and friendly staff. However, many locals will tell you that there are better steakhouses in town.

21h00 - We asked the reception of the association to get a taxi for us. We didn't want to stand outside in the dark and wind to wait for the bus; and to be honest, we didn't know if the bus will ever come...

Day 3
09h00 - My driver picked me up at the hotel
09h30 - Ready to set off for Furnas and the Nordeste region (referring to the Northeast)!
11h00 - Terra Nostra Park - An hour inside this park is not enough. I personally think I need at least three hours. At least an hour to fully indulge myself in the hot springs.


12h00 - Off to see how the Cozido das Furnas is prepared; the signature dish in the area. It's meat stew slow-cooked with geothermal heat inside the volcanic holes. Smell of sulphur in the air.


13h10 - Arrived at Restaurante Banhos Ferreos, a local restaurant that serves the dish. A generous amount of wine was served and we also tried a very local produce - a soda made with passion fruit.
14h46 - Set off to explore the rest of Nordeste, passing by parks, waterfalls, viewpoints and more. Every single corner of this part of the island offers spectacular landscape.
17h15 - Just in time to enter the tea plantation CHA GORREANA before it closes at 18h00. Tried different kinds of tea from green to black; and of all varieties, the Cha Orange Pekoe stands out.


19h00 - Returned to Ponta Delgada. Showered and changed. Off to one of the most famous restaurant in downtown Ponta Delgada: A Tasca. Staff informed us that the next available table at 21h00...
21h00 - Fish of the day: Veja (Parrot Fish). Dessert: Bean Cake. Service is good, food is also nice but doesn't have the wow factor.

Parrot Fish

Day 4
08h00 - Food shopping. I want to get a box of Queijadas da Vila & Gorreana Tea as well as some locally made sweets. The best place for this is O Rei dos Queijos. Price is the best too. There are a few rivals nearby, but trust me, O Rei offers the best price. After all, O Rei means THE KING in English.
11h00 - Returned to hotel. Showered, packed my suitcase, checked out from my hotel and joined my friend for a stroll around downtown Ponta Delgada
11h30 - Souvenir time. My friend got some fish posters of Açores. I'm tempted too as I wanted to master the Portuguese names of all the Azorean fishes. But I was lazy to carry too much. 
12h00 - Lunch time. À Terra, inside the newly open 5 star Octant Hotel, overlooking the marina and ocean. We had lots of nice bread, cheese, vegetable soup, a side dish of vegetable stew made with cozido broth, a fish, and the highlight of the lunch: Cheesecake made with Azorean cheese. I'm hopeless with Portuguese cheesecake after trying dozens and dozens over the last 7 years - most of them are just made with whipped cream. This one served at À Terra is wonderful. It's got the aroma of Azorean cheese and the texture of a New York Cheesecake. Everything served in this meal was wonderful. With the panoramic view set against the backdrop, I can't think of a better meal before heading back to Lisbon.



16h30 - Driver picked me at hotel. Off to Airport
18h00 - Flight back to Lisbon


TIPS:
I booked this trip through Azores Getaways. The package includes flight, hotel (including breakfast), airport-to-hotel transfer and also the tours (with a driver). Since I have done my research and have a clear idea about where I wanted to visit and what I wanted to do, I spoke directly to a travel specialist. I told them that I wanted to see:
  • The Blue & Green Lagoon
  • Furnas (Terra Nostra Park and try out the cozido)
  • The Tea Plantation
So for me any sights beyond the above are bonuses. Booking a trip through this agent saves me a lot of time; though not money. If you book your flights and hotels directly, it will be cheaper. Taxis are available at the airport and prices are also reasonable. You may also book the local tours with the help of your hotel concierge and prices are slightly cheaper. 

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